| What it runs on |
A charged 12 V deep-cycle battery. Charger needs AC until the outage starts. |
Pressure from the municipal water main. No battery. No house electricity. |
Fuel, solar, or stored watt-hours. Powers the existing AC primary pump if you can feed that circuit safely. |
| Well water |
Works. The well is irrelevant to a DC pump in the pit. |
Does not work. No city-main pressure. When the well pump loses power, the backup has nothing to drive it. |
Can run the well pump and the sump if the generator is sized and wired for both. That is an electrical job, not a pit kit. |
| Runtime |
Limited by battery health and how often the float cycles. Manufacturer sheets give continuous vs duty-cycle hours — not a storm forecast. |
As long as the city main stays pressurized. Uses city water while it runs. |
As long as you have fuel or charge. Quiet inverter units still need you (or an auto-transfer setup) to start them. |
| Install |
Second pump in the basin, check valve, battery box nearby. Pit has to be big enough for two pumps and two floats. |
3/4 in supply from the city line, discharge, often a backflow preventer. Some towns require an RPZ. |
Interlock or transfer switch for a generator. A power station on an extension cord is a stopgap, not a code install. |
| Freeze risk |
Cold basement cuts battery capacity. A discharged wet-cell can freeze. Outdoor discharge freeze is the same as any sump. |
The city-water supply line can freeze in an unheated crawl, garage, or rim joist. |
Do not run a generator indoors (carbon monoxide). Outdoor ice and exhaust. Discharge freeze same as any sump. |
| When it fails you |
Dead, sulfated, or undersized battery. Float hung up. You never tested it. |
Well water. Low city pressure. Frozen or closed supply valve. Missing backflow hardware. |
No fuel. No one home to start it. Overloaded inverter. |